In mid-February, I traveled through Israel with the Milwaukee Jewish Federation’s Weinstein Fellowship. My first trip in 14 years, the short mission allowed me to experience the Jewish state not only with my mind, heart and soul but also with the taste buds of a chef.
Walking through Tel Aviv with friends, I stumbled upon a shwarma stand just a short walk from our hotel. I ordered mine in a laffa (a large flatbread that wraps around the meat and vegetables) with everything, including tehina, fries and salad.
I can still taste it in my mouth — fresh cucumbers and tomatoes with the freshly shaved beef and tehina. Yum.
During the mission, we traveled north to Milwaukee’s Partnership 2000 region of Sovev Kinneret, which includes Tiberias, the Jordan Valley and the Lower Galilee.
While there, each of the 15 Milwaukeeans on our trip was hosted by a family for dinner. I ate with a young family in Kibbutz Ma’agan, located on the Sea of Galiliee. We sat under the stars in their small front yard enjoying a salad of fresh vegetables, grilled meats, chicken and fish.
Sitting with them, I felt the warmth of family and the power of community that stretches across oceans and comes together over a magical and simple meal.
My crowning moment as a food-lover in Israel was at Machane Yehudah, the shuk (market). I began my Shabbat preparations on Friday morning at 8 a.m., as fresh rugalach emerged from the oven, produce was unpacked and shopkeepers prepared for the rush of shoppers.
After purchasing two dozen rugalach from Marzipan (the quantity my wife insisted that I purchase), I walked the market and admired the piles of fresh peppers, cucumbers, dates, figs, nuts and spices. I purchased two kilograms of za’atar, a spice blend of oregano, basil, thyme, savory, sesame and salt.
I longed for my kitchen and the ability to use these fresh fruits, vegetables and spices. Intoxicated by the bright colors and fresh smells, I exercised a great deal of self-control not to purchase everything. The fruits and vegetables are what we in America long for — fresh from the field and packed with flavor.
I came home inspired by the flavors of Israel and will use that inspiration to prepare for Milwaukee’s Yom HaAtzmaut celebration, set to take place April 19 at the Harry & Rose Samson Family Jewish Community Center. In the meantime, enjoy these treats from the Jewish state.
Israeli salad is a staple in Israel, but as you can imagine, it is simply called “Salad.” My nuance with Israeli salad is the addition of fresh green peppers to add a little extra crunch.
1/2-cup parsley (for authentic, be sure to use curly parsley)
Finely dice the tomatoes, cucumber and pepper (this is key to making authentic Israeli Salad). Chop the parsley and mint finely and toss with vegetables.
In a separate bowl, whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Slowly add to vegetables and mix well. Serve immediately with warm pita bread.
One of my favorite things in Israel to eat is labneh, which made its way from Lebanon and Iran into Israel. It is not as hard to make as you would think. It just takes a little TLC and time.
1 quart plain yogurt made from whole milk
Empty yogurt over cheesecloth. Suspend cheesecloth over bowl and stretch it over bowl and put rubber band over to keep it in place. Put in refrigerator and let drip into bowl for 1-2 days, letting the whey drain out.
Mix dried oregano and salt with yogurt. Place on plate with a divot in the middle and fill with olive oil.
Serve with fresh, hot pita bread. Garnish with kalamata olives.
Although it is almost impossible to replicate the true taste of Israeli street food, this is a tasty attempt.
2 cloves garlic, crushed and minced
Put the meat in a large mixing bowl. Add the onions, lemon juice, olive oil, cinnamon, allspice and thyme and season generously with salt and pepper. Mix thoroughly, cover and marinate in refrigerator for four hours. Stir the mixture now and then.
Put the tehina in a mixing bowl and slowly whisk in the lemon juice and the water, alternating between the two as you add them.
Continue until you have a consistency similar to creamy yogurt. Stir in the garlic and herbs, taste and season with salt. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.
To prepare the sandwiches, put a large sauté pan over high heat and preheat the oven to 350 degrees. When pan is very hot, add the meat and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes, until it is just barely cooked. Remove from the heat.
Warm the pita until they are hot, soft and pliable.
Set the warm pitas on a large work surface and divide the meat among them, placing it down the middle of each pita. Top with equal quantities of tomato, onion, and herbs. Season with salt and pepper, drizzle with tahini sauce and roll each sandwich tightly.
Although there is nothing that can compare to Marzipan’s rugalach, this is a good alternative.
Mix yeast with 1 teaspoon sugar and 1/2 cup of lukewarm milk. Let sit until yeast starts bubbling. Mix in rest of ingredients and knead until dough doesn’t stick to pan. Cool in refrigerator for at least 2 hours.
Roll dough into a flat sheet. Spread sugar, cocoa mixture on top. Cut into triangles and roll starting from the base of the triangle. On a cookie sheet, bake at 375° until golden approximately 25-35 minutes.
While enjoying your rugalach, boil water and mix with fresh mint and imagine yourself sitting among friends in Israel enjoying fresh food and drink.
A classically trained chef, Jonah Levenberg is the director of food services at the Harry & Rose Samson Family Jewish Community Center, where he is the creative mind behind CAF%u0100 B DATA and Citron Catering. He blogs at www.jccmilwaukee.org.
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