Though I have been in Senegal only six months, serving as a rural community health volunteer with the Peace Corps, I can already call this place home.
I am a Jewish woman in a 90 percent Muslim country and the 100 percent Muslim community of Touba Missira, but I am finding myself more comfortable and at home here than I ever thought possible.
Rather than feeling estranged from my Jewish roots in such a foreign situation, I find myself connecting with my Judaism in ways I never expected.
Daily, I find subtle parallels that draw my attention to how similar our faiths and backgrounds are. Everything from the many children named Sira and Ibrahima to the mosque call that strangely sounds like a Hasidic niggun serve as reminders of our shared roots.
Daily the women go out to work the fields in a blistering, back aching, callus-forming ritual that reminds me of our ancient ancestors’ toil, and the dedication that the first Zionists gave to the land of Israel.
My drive to join the Peace Corps stemmed from my love of travel, learning languages, and my desire to experience new cultures. From an early age I was also instilled with the Jewish value of tikkun olam (repairing the world), which called me to contribute something to my community and beyond.
Growing up in the small, close-knit Congregation Shir Hadash and having been active in B’nai Brith Youth Organization, Hillel Foundation and Jewish community as a whole, I have never been more aware of my “uniqueness” as a Jew than I am now.
For the first time in my life, I find myself without a cohesive Jewish community around me. Even within the volunteer population of 120 Americans, I find myself in the minority role as the “token” Jew. This has led to many insightful conversations about religion, faith and cultural heritage among my peers.
Matzo ball soup
With all the trials and stresses of living in a foreign developing country and being so far from family and friends, I have found my Judaism a great source of strength.
I even had the opportunity to serve eight other volunteers their very first bowl of matzo ball soup, the ultimate comfort food.
Passover fell soon after I arrived in Senegal, and I attended the only seder in the country hosted by the Israeli ambassador and his family.
When I explained to my Muslim host family why I would be celebrating this holiday, they were eager to hear about the story, tradition, and significance of Passover.
They could relate to and appreciate my observance of it and supported the dietary restrictions involved. Sharing this experience with them allowed me to see how open and tolerant the Muslim faith can be toward other religions, and it calmed any anxieties I may have previously had.
The seder was a wonderful and casual affair, and despite being far from my family, I felt right at home. The Haggadah was read alternately in French, Hebrew and English, and afterward, guests shared their musical talents while the kids watched “Finding Nemo” in Hebrew.
For a country with no native Jewish population, there was an impressive turnout, and once again I felt grateful to be a part of such a warm, closely knit community.
I look forward to observing both Islam’s Ramadan and the Jewish High Holidays, which will make this upcoming month a significant opportunity for cultural and religious exchange.
Because of the difficult day’s journey to Dakar I will not be able to observe both Rosh HaShanah and Yom Kippur with the Jewish community there. I will therefore have to create my own spiritual and meaningful New Year celebration in the atypical setting of a Muslim Mandinka village.
The Peace Corps is full of challenges, as one can well imagine, and the spiritual challenge is a unique one. As I begin a New Year, one that will be spent entirely immersed in village life and community health work, I hope to be able to enhance cross-cultural understanding for myself and with my neighbors.
As I continue my work to improve health awareness in my community, I find that the value of tikkun olam begins with the recognition that the potential for change lies within each individual.
The 500 residents of Touba Missira already demonstrate hard work, determination and a willingness to change, so all I can offer is a little optimism, creativity and a new perspective.
Milwaukeean Rebecca Bartlein completed a degree in international development and French at George Washington Univesrity in August 2004. She arrived in Senegal in March 2005 and will serve in the Peace Corps there for two years.
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