Last year the Harry & Rose Samson Family Jewish Community Center offered a trip to China, led by Jody Hirsh. About 30 people eagerly enrolled.
In preparation, Hirsh, a former resident of Hong Kong, agreed to teach us about the Jews of China. He bombarded us with lectures, films, and books, and even a few Chinese words.
Unfortunately, SARS and the war in Iraq postponed our voyage; but this March, 27 of us took our long awaited expedition. An eclectic group from Wisconsin, Illinois, Connecticut and Pennsylvania, we were united in our enthusiasm about China.
Our first stop was Hong Kong, home to 600 Jewish families. On Friday night we attended services at United Jewish Congregation, a Reform synagogue.
The rabbi, cantor and congregants — a diverse assemblage of Asians, Australians and Americans — warmly welcomed us. The lively service was filled with singing and guitar accompaniment. Even though we were thousands of miles from America, I felt at home.
On Shabbat morning we attended services at Ohel Leah, an Orthodox shul. It always amazes me that no matter which synagogue one attends, on Shabbat each Jew is on the same page.
The Jewish population in Shanghai reached 30,000 at its peak but dwindled after World War II. There are now about 500 Jews there. Dvir, an Israeli guide, showed us the Jewish sites. As a genealogist, I was fascinated by his project restoring 80 Jewish tombstones that were scattered about Shanghai.
We visited the Peace Hotel, which was built by Jewish immigrants, and saw buildings that once served as homes, businesses, and an absorption center for thousands of Jews, who came to Shanghai from 1937 to 1941 after fleeing Nazi persecution.
In 1942, during the Japanese occupation of China, Japanese authorities ordered Jewish refugees who had arrived in Shanghai from Europe since 1937 to move into “the designated area for stateless refugees” and set up this ghetto.
We walked along the narrow streets lined with shops that were once cafes and synagogues. In a nearby park, a monument commemorates the refugees who lived in this ghetto.
In Beijing, where there are now some 100 Jews, we participated in a Reconstructionist service at Kehillat Beijing, a small congregation that rents space at the Capitol Club, a city club. The next morning, we attended stirring services at Chabad Lubavitch of Beijing.
As we visited the Jewish sites in China, I realized that had my grandfather not been able to escape from the Russian Army in 1912 to America, he might have ended up in China!
So now I’m home and glad to be back, but full of memories. After sharing two weeks together, our group feels a special bond with each other and with our mishpachah in Jewish China.
Penny Deshur, co-chair of the Milwaukee Jewish Federation’s Community Campaign 2004, traveled to China last month on a JCC trip.
Loading ...