Perhaps the most recognizable staple of Israeli cuisine is falafel. The brown, golf ball-sized croquettes made of beans or chickpeas are popular in the United States as well, especially among vegetarians.
Widely available in U.S. supermarkets and health food stores, the frozen variety of falafel has developed a reputation for blandness and lack of variety, said Steve Amzel, a kosher chef and owner, along with Marcia Eisenbach, of Milwaukee-based Emes Kosher Catering.
Amzel and Eisenbach have developed a new frozen falafel product, which they believe will add a much-needed burst of flavor and choice to the staid form of current frozen falafel offerings.
The idea came to Amzel about eight years ago as he was sitting in his son’s Middle Eastern restaurant in Taos, N.M., enjoying a plate of falafel.
His son’s falafel was good, he said, but he thought, “Wait a minute. Why can’t we make [the falafel] kosher, and why can’t I make different flavors, and why can’t I give the kosher market a different perspective on falafels?”
That brainstorm planted the seed for Amzel, who has since perfected his recipe and, along with Eisenbach, developed a new brand of frozen falafel called Premium Falafel Mix.
Amzel honed his culinary skills for over 20 years in Israel at Kibbutz Gesher HaZiv in the Western Galilee and at Bet Yudee Yam culinary school in Haifa before returning to the United States in 1990. He and Eisenbach started Emes in 2000.
Eisenbach owns the Kosher Meat Klub supermarket on 47th and Burleigh in Milwaukee with her husband, Rabbi Dovid Eisenbach. Emes is based in the same location.
Falafel usually comes in a ball or patty predominantly composed of fava beans, or more commonly in Israel, chickpeas, (along with, onions, parsley, baking soda and other spices and seasonings) that is either fried or baked. It may also contain flour and/or eggs.
“This is not a powdered form, it’s a mix like you would get in Israel,” said Amzel, referring to the Telma brand of frozen falafel that comes as a powder and needs water added to it.
“All you have to do [to his product] is defrost it, in the microwave or however [you choose], [then] you make the size you want,” and choose your method of preparation: pan-fry, deep-fry or bake. Nothing needs to be added to the mix.
Amzel also contrasted his product with the New York-based Amnon brand of falafel, which comes in ready-made balls.
“You’re very limited with what you can do with these balls. You can’t pan-fry them; you have to [deep] fry them. And they’re not very tasty.”
Amzel pointed out that the big differences between his product and the others are that his mix is gluten free, cholesterol free, all natural and safe for vegans. The allergen statement on the box says that the product contains no wheat, soy, eggs, milk, tree nuts or peanuts. There is also no flour in it.
“And we’re also coming out with four different flavors,” he said. “This does not exist anywhere in the kosher field.”
Premium Falafel Mix is currently available in New York, Los Angeles and in Milwaukee at the Kosher Meat Klub for $3.99.
“The product is poised to be hitting the shelves in many different locations” across the country, said Yaakov Bellinsky, vice president of operations of Upscale Foods, Inc., the kosher food manufacturer which produces and distributes the falafel mix under its Old City Café brand. Emes also distributes the product.
Bellinsky said that the original order of 450 cases of the “authentic original” flavored mix has nearly sold out.
“There’s been a lot of interest and excitement from retailers, smaller independent stores and supermarket chains,” he said. “We wanted to see what the response was on the first flavor, and it’s been fantastic. We will get the others out in short order.”
The other flavors that are due out this summer are sun-dried tomato, which, like the authentic original, is mild; traditional sesame, which has medium spice; and chipotle pepper, which is listed as spicy.
“All the flavors are very distinct, very special, interesting and delicious,” said Bellinsky. “No other brand or company offers four different flavors like this product does. [Steve and Marcia] are setting the standard for what falafel should taste like.”
When it came to presenting their product to Old City, Eisenbach and Amzel said they did not feel nervous at all that their hard work would not be well accepted.
“It was not nerve-racking because we know we have a good product,” said Eisenbach.
“If you know you have a good product,” added Amzel, “then it’s easy to sell to other people.”
For the team of Emes Kosher Catering, perfecting this product, which included the tedious and expensive work of designing the package and getting kosher certification from the Orthodox Union, it seems to have been a labor of love.
“We enjoy what we’re doing,” said Eisenbach. “It’s 50 percent work and 50 percent fun.”
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