Jerusalem — The cold Jerusalem evening did not detract from the warmth inside the city’s Darna restaurant, where the 43 participants on the Milwaukee Jewish Federation Together—B’Yachad Mission to Israel were enjoying the delights of authentic Moroccan cuisine the evening of Jan. 14.
Flowing red wine, plates of tasty couscous and waiters dressed in traditional Moroccan clothing added to the upbeat mood felt by all in this house-turned-eatery. The welcoming feeling was further proof for Glendale residents Lil and Art Teplinsky of the famous Israeli hospitality.
“We had heard before we came that Israelis would welcome us with open arms,” said Lil, “but … we were skeptical that it was all just words!”
Only four days after their arrival, the Teplinskys said that the Israelis they had met so far were warm, friendly and greatly appreciative of their presence in Israel.
The group, comprising first timers like Art Teplinsky and more seasoned visitors to Israel, arrived here on Monday, Feb. 11.
Originally planned to mark the federation’s 100th anniversary, the trip changed to a solidarity mission because of Israel’s current security situation. The group spent two nights visiting Milwaukee’s Partnership 2000 region of Sovev Kinneret in the north of the country (see sidebar), and then traveled to Tel Aviv and Jerusalem for the last few days.
Though Lil had been to Israel once more than 30 years ago, the couple had not been able to visit together until now. “We were busy raising a family and just did not have the opportunity,” Lil explained. “But we knew people who came on the last community trip and they all had such wonderful things to say about it that we decided if there was ever another one we had to come.”
The Teplinskys signed up immediately on hearing about this year’s trip, and despite the deteriorating security situation, said they had no qualms about coming.
“We really felt that now was the right time for us to come,” said Art. “We put the security situation out of our minds, and even the events of Sept. 11 did not change our views.”
Fox Point resident Nancy Barnett, who had also never visited Israel before, agreed with the Teplinskys. “Security concerns were not in the forefront of my mind. I felt confident that I was not walking into a war zone,” she said between courses at Darna. “Life is a risk and that is what makes it worth living.”
Since arriving, however, Barnett admitted that she had not ignored the pressing security issues in the country and believed that she will now be able to better understand the current conflict.
“I always knew Israel was small but I did not know that it was tiny!” she exclaimed, adding that Hebron is so close to Jerusalem and the Kinneret so close to the Golan Heights that it is all really one place.
“I had no idea that people were living on top of one another. Take [the southern Jerusalem suburb of] Gilo for example. I did not realize that the Arab village was so close. They are different cities but look like one.”
The group had visited Gilo, which has been under fire from the neighboring Arab village of Beit Jala for more than a year, earlier in the day. Regarding the short stop in the hilltop community, Lil said, “We had no fears while we were in Gilo, even looking out over the security wall [built by the Israeli Army]. I was more concerned and worried for the people living there, especially after seeing bullet holes in the wall of the kindergarten.”
Life continues
For the more experienced visitors to Israel, such as Dottie and Mert Rotter of Mequon, shocking revelations came more from witnessing the dearth of tourists.
“It is more than sad,” said Dottie. “I did not even recognize some of the well-known streets in Jerusalem because they are so empty. Many of the restaurants I have been to in the past have either closed down or are empty.”
Madison resident Steven Morrison, executive director of the Madison Jewish Community Council who came with his wife, Goldie Kadushin, added, “At Beit Hatefusot (The Diaspora Museum in Tel Aviv), we were the only people there. And although I appreciated the fact that there was no line for luggage at Ben Gurion airport, that was very poignant.”
However, Dottie, whose two daughters and grandchildren live here, added, “There is no point being scared; you could be in the wrong place at the wrong time anywhere in the world.”
Despite the dwindling number of visitors to Israel in recent months and the much smaller community mission compared to the prior one in 1998 — which boasted more than 300 participants — the atmosphere in Darna was exhilarating, and the group felt truly welcomed by their Israeli “family.”
Even with the palpable sense of depression in certain parts of the country, many of the participants were impressed by the Israelis’ determination to live a normal life.
Mert, who is co-chair of the federation’s Israel and Overseas Experiences Subcommittee, spent 45 minutes in a traffic jam on his way from Tel Aviv to Bet Shemesh to visit his and Dottie’s daughter the day before.
“That traffic jam showed me that despite all the terrorism, normal life continues,” he said. “They [my daughter’s family] only have the usual family concerns. The constant fear of terrorism is not the main focus for all in daily life.”
“Driving is scarier than the terrorism,” added Dottie, as she recalled how nervous they were returning from Bet Shemesh to Jerusalem because the taxi driver was talking on his cell phone the whole way. “I just can’t wait to tell people what they missed on this trip.”
Ruth Eglash, former assistant editor of The Chronicle, is the arts and entertainment editor of the Jerusalem Post.
In next week’s issue: How the funds raised for MJF’s Israel NOW Campaign will benefit Milwaukee’s Partnership 2000 region.
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